Smokey Eyes

Blame it on Kim Kardashian, but a lot of women want to master the smokey eye look. It’s a bold, sexy look that focuses all the attention on what is usually a woman’s best feature: her eyes. It’s certainly not for the timid.

I get so many requests about how to do a smokey eye, that I thought I’d provide a tutorial here. There are several variations of this, but the linchpins of a smokey eye are dark eyeliner and mascara. Here we go…

1. Apply an eyeshadow primer to the entire lid (e.g. MAC Paint Pot in Soft Ochre or Urban Decay Primer Potion). This helps with the longevity of the look by preventing creasing and transferring and helps the colors go on truer.
2. Fill in brows (e.g. MAC Charcoal Brown for brunettes and Omega for blondes). A defined arch is important to framing the eyes. I prefer applying a brow powder with an angled brush as this creates a more natural look. You can also use a pencil, just make sure to brush through your brows with a spooly brush when you’re done.
3. Apply eyeshadow on lid and into crease. There are many options here. I like coppery/bronzey colors because they are universally flattering (e.g. Laura Mercier Burnished Copper, MAC Rule w/Romp layered over it). You can also use purples, grays, blues, greens, etc, whatever suits your fancy. Remember the color does not need to be dark, since the drama comes from the liner.
4. Apply nude eye shadow to brow bone (e.g. Urban Decay ABC Gum or MAC Blanc Type for fair skin).
5. Apply dark eyeliner upper lash line so that it gets thicker as you go to the outer corner (favorite black liner: MAC Smolder Eye Kohl). It does not have to be perfect. You can use black for lots of drama or for a more day appropriate look, try dark brown (Clinique Chocolate Lustre), purple (Laura Mercier Black Violet), or emerald green (Chanel Black Jade). For more drama and to set the creamy pencil formula, apply black eye shadow (e.g. MAC Carbon) over the liner using an angled brush. Smudge the line with MAC brush # 219 – this smudge brush is key! In a pinch, you can use a Q-tip. Use the 219 to apply Carbon in outer “V.” Blend with a big fluffy brush.
6. Clean any stray shadow or liner with a Q-tip or tissue.
7. Apply concealer under eyes. Then apply a light dusting of translucent powder using a velour powder puff.
8. Apply same eyeliner to base/root of lower lashes and inside rim or waterline. Forgo this step if you want more of a day look. Apply black eye shadow (MAC Carbon) over the liner using an angled brush. Smudge the line with brush #219.
9. Apply a dot of pale champagne eye shadow to the inner corner of the eyes to brighten them.
10. Curl lashes (best: Shu Uemura Lash Curler).
11. Apply several coats of volumizing black mascara to upper and lower lashes (Cover Girl Volume Exact). Wiggle the wand at the root of the lashes, then slowly sweep it through.

Tip: When starting out, apply thin layers and build from there. This will help you control the application so you don’t look like you were beat up by a gang of midgets. But don’t stop at the halfway point. When I teach someone to do this they are always nervous and don’t build up enough color. The trick is to build up to the perfect level of intensity. Blending is key. This is especially true of the liner. The liner is what creates the smokiness factor.

That’s it for the eyes. Now all you need to do is apply foundation or spot concealer. A peach blush or bronzer (Laura Mercier Golden Mosaic) on the cheeks with a bit of pink blush on the apples to make it pop. Keep the lips light – pink or nude gloss (Bobbi Brown Rosy, Revlon Nude Lustre) or lipstick (Laura Mercier Purple Haze or Brown Sugar). Voila! A sultry new you!